Color: Brown, tan, reddish brown.
Size: Up to 1-½ inches.
Mole crickets spend the winter in deep burrows in the soil. When the soil warms in the spring and night temperatures approach 60 degrees F, mole crickets move up to feed on grass.
Mole crickets have robust front legs highly modified for digging. They tunnel rapidly just below the soil surface and make trails of pushed-up soil similar to that of a mole only much smaller. Mole crickets can run very rapidly when on the soil surface.
Mole crickets spend the winter in deep burrows in the soil. When the soil warms in the spring and night temperatures approach 60 degrees F, mole crickets move up to feed on grass. Feeding occurs primarily at night in the upper 1 inch of the soil. Mole crickets also forage on the soil surface when night temperatures are warm and the soil is moist. Activity increases in the spring, and adults fly and mate.
- Feeds primarily on other insects, earthworms
- Almost all vegetable crops may be damaged by these pests
- Feed at or slightly below the soil surface on roots, tubers and stems
- Also attack strawberries and other fruit which contacts the soil
Feeds primarily on other insects and earthworms as nymphs and adults; their prey-searching activities involving digging shallow tunnels in soil, resembling mole runs, which disrupt root systems of turf grass and crops.
Mole crickets can damage plants by feeding at night on aboveground foliage or stem tissue and belowground on roots and tubers. Seedlings may be girdled at the stems near the soil surface, though some plants may be completely severed and pulled into a tunnel to be eaten. Mole cricket tunneling near the soil surface dislodges plants or causes them to dry out. Small mounds of soil are also pushed up. Tunneling reduces the aesthetic quality of turf grass, interferes with the roll of the ball on golf courses, and results in reduced livestock grazing on severely infested pastures.
Hybrid Bermuda grasses, common Bermuda grass, Bahia grass, zoysia grasses, and centipede grass are most severely damaged.
- In the weeks that follow treatment, monitor control in the most problematic areas with the soapy water flush. Remember that it may take many treatments a week or two to become fully effective. The larger the mole cricket, the longer time required to observe good control.
- Where mole crickets are being attracted in large numbers to exterior lights on a home or building, the lights should remain off when not needed or switch the bulbs to a type less attractive to insects (e.g., yellow bug lights or sodium vapor lamps).
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When soil moisture is low, the crickets have a tendency to remain deeper in the soil. Dry soil conditions make mole cricket control more difficult as the cricket's depth decreases the likelihood the insecticide will make contact.Additionally, the dry soil and organic matter may lead to an increase in binding of the insecticide, which results in less availability of the product.
- Pre-irrigation of the affected area, as well as post-treatment irrigation, may be beneficial in enhancing mole cricket control. The pre-irrigation helps thoroughly wet the soil and organic matter, which may improve insecticide movement. It may also help move the mole cricket closer to the surface. But don't put too much water out after treatment (more than ½ inch). This may lead to runoff, and our research shows this may actually reduce the effectiveness of the treatment.
Manufacturer Recommended Products And Treatment For Mole Cricket Control
Pests need food, water, and shelter. Often the problem may be solved just by removing these key items. Before even thinking about chemical pest control, it is important to be aware of
Conducive Condition | Recommendation | |
1 | Tree branches on house | Keep tree branches away from house to reduce pest access |
2 | Firewood next to foundation | Keep firewood away from house to reduce pest harborage |
3 | Debris on crawlspace/next to foundation | Remove wood debris to reduce termite ha rborage area |
4 | Excessive plant cover, stump, etc. | Providing spacing between plant cover and structure |
5 | Soil above the foundation Ii ne | Keep soil below top of foundation to reduce harbo rage areas |
6 | Wood-to-ground contact | Keep soil from touching wood to eliminate termite access |
7 | Debris on roof/full gutter | Keep gutter & roof free of debris to reduce insect harborage |
8 | Standi ng water near/under structure | Eliminate standing water to reduce pest harbo rage |
9 | Mo isture problem under structure | Increase ventilation to reduce pest harbo rage area |
10 | Openi ngs at plumbi ng & electronics | Seal opening to reduce pest access |
11 | Excessive gaps at windows/doors | Seal gaps to reduce pest access |
12 | Lea ky plumb ing fixtures | Repair to reduce moisture for pests |
13 | Keep garbage cans covered | Covered to reduce attraction of insects of vertebrate pests |
14 | Mo isture damage wood | Repair rotten or damaged wood to reduce insect harborage |
15 | Grocery bags stored improperly | Seal paper sacks in containers to reduce i nsect ha rborage areas |
16 | Pet food unsealed or left out | Keep pet food in sealed containers and unavailable to pests |
17 | Excessive storage conditions | Keep storage areas uncluttered and manageable |
18 | Debris below kick plates | Remove kick plates to reduce rodent harborage |
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